Cosmetology Board Exam Study Guide

Key facts, formulas, and safety rules the state board exam will test you on.

1. Sanitation & Infection Control (Highest-tested area)

The hierarchy: Sterilization (kills everything including spores) > Disinfection (kills most pathogens, not spores) > Sanitization (reduces bacteria count)

Method	Level	Use
Autoclave	Sterilization	Metal implements (piercing tools, not common in cosmetology)
EPA-registered disinfectant	Disinfection	Non-porous tools (shears, combs, nail implements)
Soap + water	Sanitization	Hands, surfaces

Bloodborne pathogens: If you nick a client, stop service, put on gloves, treat wound, double-bag contaminated items. Never reuse single-use items.

MSDS/SDS sheets: Must be accessible for every chemical in the salon. Know the 9-section format — exam loves this.

2. Hair Services

Hair structure: Cuticle (outer scales), cortex (color/strength/elasticity), medulla (inner core, not always present)

Hair growth phases: Anagen (growth, 2-6 years), Catagen (transition, 2-3 weeks), Telogen (resting/shedding, 3-4 months)

Porosity: High porosity = absorbs quickly, loses color fast. Low porosity = resistant to chemicals, needs more processing time. Test: float a hair in water.

Elasticity test: Wet a strand, stretch it. Healthy hair stretches 50% and returns. Over-processed hair breaks.

Section angle	Result
90° (perpendicular to head)	One length, blunt cut
45° (below natural fall)	Weight line (bob)
Above 90°	Layering, removes weight

3. Chemical Services

pH scale: 0-14. Hair's natural pH = 4.5-5.5 (slightly acidic). Alkaline chemicals (relaxers, perms) open the cuticle. Acidic products (conditioners) close it.

Permanent waves: Reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds → rods reshape hair → oxidizing agent (neutralizer, H₂O₂) reforms bonds in new position

Relaxers: Sodium hydroxide (lye) — strongest, faster processing. No-lye (calcium hydroxide + guanidine carbonate) — gentler, requires activator mixed fresh.

Color levels: Level 1 (black) to Level 10 (lightest blonde). Lifting = removing pigment. Depositing = adding color. To go lighter, you must lift first.

Developer volumes: 10 vol = deposit only. 20 vol = 1-2 levels lift. 30 vol = 2-3 levels lift. 40 vol = 3-4 levels (max recommended on scalp).

4. Skin Care & Facial Services

Fitzpatrick scale: Types I-VI — determines skin's reaction to UV. Type I (always burns) to Type VI (never burns). Used to assess laser/chemical peel risk.

Skin layers: Epidermis (5 layers: stratum corneum, lucidum, granulosum, spinosum, germinativum), Dermis, Subcutaneous layer

Contraindications for facial: Active acne (avoid extraction without proper training), open wounds, sunburn, contagious skin conditions, recent chemical peel or laser.

Extraction: Comedone extractor only on open comedones (blackheads). Never force closed comedones — causes scarring.

5. Nail Care

Nail anatomy: Nail plate (visible nail), nail bed (skin under plate), lunula (white half-moon), cuticle (dead tissue — push, don't cut), eponychium (living skin at base)

Nail disorders you cannot service: Onychomycosis (fungal infection), paronychia (bacterial infection), greenies (Pseudomonas bacteria — blue-green discoloration under enhancement)

Enhancement chemistry: Acrylic = liquid monomer + powder polymer. Gel = photo-initiators cured by UV/LED light. Neither should contact the skin or natural nail plate excessively.

6. State Law & Salon Safety

Key agencies: State Board of Cosmetology (licenses, inspections), OSHA (workplace safety), EPA (environmental disposal)

License renewal: Varies by state — know YOUR state's CE hours requirement. Typically 4-16 hours per renewal period.

Client record cards: Document all services, products used, patch test results. Required before chemical services.

Patch test: Must be performed 24-48 hours before any aniline derivative tint (permanent color). Exception: semi-permanent and temporary color.